Seglvik. What I Had Forgotten to Plan For.
There's something you sometimes learn too late on a journey: what matters most isn't what you prepared for, it's what you forgot to anticipate. I had prepared everything. Everything except…
Puffin
In Scotland, he was affectionately known as Tammie Norrie — a name that was also given, in the 19th century, to a rather simple-minded man. I spent hours with them.…
Kambala
The Theyyam had captivated me with its slowness — the turmeric spread across a face, the headdress being fitted piece by piece, hours before the man finally stepped aside. As…
Lathmar Holi
Robert Capa used to say that if your photos aren’t good enough, it’s because you weren’t close enough to your subject. I’ve never thought about that quote more than I…
Theyyam
It was a book that set me on the road. William Dalrymple, Nine Lives, the second chapter—a low-caste barber who becomes a god for one night on the Malabar coast.…
Why this title?
It took me time to understand why certain forms, certain beings, certain places, certain animals accompany me, in silence, but with persistence. The whale and the puffin are among them.…
Free Eggs
"He kept hens and put eggs in a basket on a flat stone next to the road each morning. Customers left money in an honesty box, so there was no…
Faroe Islands, raw beauty, intact violence.
"By 1760, the hunters of Nantucket had virtually exterminated the entire local population of cetaceans, but they cared little: they built larger whaling sloops and equipped them with brick furnaces…
Kangerluarsoruseq: chronicle of a cod-fishing kingdom turned ghost town
50 km south of Nuuk, on a tranquil arm of the fjord, the gouged-out metal hulls reflect an impassive light. We switch off the sailboat’s engine; now only the lapping…
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